[Cape May, NJ]


      History    1990s    Camping    Links & Webrings
      July 4th weekend, 2003
      Camping, 2003


      History

      Cape May, NJ is probably the most quaint of all beach resort communities. Located at the southernmost tip of New Jersey, it offers clean, sparkling beaches, jetties, and, BEST of all, those wonderful Painted Ladies, also known as Gingerbreads and Victorians.

      Cape May is America's oldest seaside resort. Vacationers started summering there in the early 1800s, and it has remained a popular vacation spot ever since. Much of what still stands hails from the Victorian era. Dozens of splendid inns, hotels, and private homes have been lavishly and lovingly restored, complete with historically correct paint hues that highlight the elaborate gingerbread ornamentation on the wood-frame buildings. Most lie in the town's central historic district, which is included on the National Register of Historic Places.

      The entire city of Cape May was designated a National Historic Landmark by the United States Department of the Interior in 1976. With its Victorian architecture, restored and preserved, Cape May is the nation's oldest seashore resort, catering to visitors since the early 1600s when Native American tribes summered on the beaches. The tourism industry flourished in the ensuing centuries when desperately-needed roads were laid in the 1700s and during the late 1800s, two railroads, the Reading and West Jersey, provided service onto Cape Island. Across the bay from Cape May lies the state of Delaware. On a clear day, its shores are clearly defined. Today, the Cape May-Lewes Ferry operates daily transporting cars, bicycles and pedestrians between the two states. But during the Civil War, the states the states were at odds; Delaware was a slave-holding state, and New Jersey was not.

      Rumor on the island tells of various homes with secret rooms and long tunnels dating back to the Civil War. It is a given among local folks that the underground railroad ran through the island, with many of those riding its rails remaining in the area; and there are families today still hesitant to speak of their origins. Despite several setbacks such as the devastating 35-acre fire of 1878 and national economic difficulties including the 1898 depression, Cape May survived into the 20th century as an upscale vacation resort. Numerous hotels were built in the early 1900s to accommodate the masses. Wide porches bedecked these hotels where visitors strolled with parasols in hand and top hats perched. Photographs scattered in businesses throughout the town illustrate those thriving times early in the century.
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      1990s

      Today there are but two of these mammoth hotels left. The Inn of Cape May and Congress Hall, both 100 years old, remain relatively unchanged, exteriors painted their original colors of white and yellow respectively, their wide porches capturing the soft breezes so many came to enjoy through the years.

      Other cities, mostly in the western states, achieved similar National Historic Landmark designations during the 1970s and into the 80s for their contributions to American history but the course of time and natural disaster forced most onto an Endangered Landmark list and eventual designation demise. Currently, Cape May stands as the nation's only entire city designated a National Historic Landmark. Twenty years of sustaining this prestigious distinction has brought pride to its 5,000 year-round residents and an influx of over 80,000 visitors on any given summer weekend.

      Cape May's streets are lined with buildings ornamented in gingerbread trim, most with airy porches, and garnished in pastel paint. Tours are given daily, some on foot and many by trolley, offering visitors a peek at the past. Yet Cape May is not simply a seashore playground; the town's heart and soul are its residents, families which have lived here for generation after generation, some Mayflower descendants, who live day-to-day cherishing the town's rich past and looking forward to the future.

      Lance and I began visiting Cape May back in September 1973, sort of by accident. Back in those days, we traveled *cheap*, staying at the then-called rooming houses. These were Victorians with many bedrooms on each floor and shared bathrooms. A one-night stay averaged $10.00. Downstairs, we had access to the kitchen and the living room which usually had a TV which only had local stations (remember, this was 1973, folks). We would bring a small BBQ grill and cook our food outside.

      Many times, we invited friends from Philly to join us. We'd spend our days on the sand, leaving only to visit Steger's Store on Beach Drive. Bob Steger was one of the most fascinating people I have ever met there. Energetic, always tanned although I never saw him ever actually leave the store. We'd buy anything from film, to T-shirts, hot dogs, suntan lotion and even rent an umbrella! His was a full-service store. I was sorry when he retired back around 1993. The year he retired, he dug out of his attic lots of really neat stuff to get rid of. I bought an old Reader's Digest which to this day, still has that wonderful musty smell :)

      [Eric 1984] There is no boardwalk in Cape May, at least not at the southern end. We do have a concrete walk, tho. After the old wooden boardwalk had gone up like matchsticks, it was decided to replace it with concrete. It's above street and beach level, so it still has the *ambiance* of a boardwalk. There is a boardwalk farther north along the beach, which is where Convention Hall is.


      [Hobies] As the years went by, we saw the lunar eclipse from the beach, a Hobie Cat Regatta, fireworks from a ship out at sea and the crash of an F-16 just a few years ago. We've seen terrible storms and watched the huge waves crash the beach and the *concrete boardwalk*....we've seen old friends retire and move to Maine and we've seen beautiful old buildings demolished to make way for *modern* commercialization. Steger's qaint shop became one of the modern malls. Yuck!


      We've seen other changes too. The rooming houses became Bed & Breakfasts! Now, for the SAME exact accomodations, one can pay an average of $80 per night, but, breakfast is included! What a bargain!

      [Mad Batter] When we first started going to Cape May, we stayed at many of the rooming houses to see which we liked the best. The most popular, back in the early 70s, was the Carroll Villa on Jackson Street. They had the most gorgeous wrap-around porch with white rocking chairs! Then, sometime in the mid-70s, a guy named Harry opened up a restaurant/cafe. Serving one of the best breakfasts I had ever had, The Mad Batter quickly became my favorite! We would now eat on the same porch I had so admired for many years.


      Nothing can compare to Kahn's Ugly Mug on Washington Street for a fun dinner. The kids can walk the few blocks, stopping into the stores, while Lance and I wait outside for our food to arrive. Late at night, at least back in the 70s, they had live bands....my favorite was a group called Smoked Country Jam....downhome Bluegrass! I wonder if they're still around??

      I remember one year, back in 1989, we took our young kids to visit my dad's boat which was docked in Wildwood. We arranged to stay at the motel attached to my favorite rooming house, the Perry House. Located just 1/2 block from the beach on Perry Street, this is where Lance and I had stayed all those glorious years. We even honeymooned there, bringing several friends with us. It rained the whole week :(
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      Camping

      Bringing the kids to the motel was the most boring vacation we have ever had. We took them to all of our old favorites in Cape May, but at night, we were stuck in the motel. We couldn't exactly leave the kids there alone while strolling the beach in the moonlight. There was no wrap-around porch with rocking chairs.....we stayed in and watched TV. B-o-r-i-n-g!

      I vowed never to be stuck like that again. No, not me, no way! Next time, we'd go camping!

      The following year, I drove down to visit some campsites I had heard about. It took only 5 minutes to decide which one was going to be *mine*. Seashore Campsites on Seashore Road is the BEST campsite. It's also the ONLY one I bothered to visit! I fell in love immediately, and I've been addicted ever since. We have a nice lake, mini-golf, a pavillion where movies are shown, flea markets and lots of great *neighbors*. One of our *neighbors* turned out to be involved in Scouting, and thereafter, we vacationed together at the campground. Another turned out to live not too far from us in Philly, so we became year-round friends too.

      This is one campground which offers DAILY activities, not just weekends. A typical week for me camping in Cape May would include a trip to the beach on Tuesday. We set up camp on Monday. Wednesdays always meant a scavenger hunt at the lake or a water balloon fight. Of course, the adults were just supposed to watch, not get into the action.....that was hard! It looked like so much fun!

      [Corey Bug]
      Corey made a friend, a cute little bug who ate out of her hand!


      [not seasick] In the afternoon, I'd drop the kids and Lance off at the Whale Watcher (just over the causeway near the baitshop). They never did get to see a whale, but they saw their share of dolphins! What a thrill that is every year for the kiddies! While they're out there avoiding getting seasick, I'm doing laundry! Even that can be fun while camping. No kidding, I actually ENJOY it (LOL)


      [dolphin]


      I also get some much-needed food shopping done and relax reading a book at the site. Then it's time to pick them up from their mid-week adventure and back to the site to make dinner. Eric loves to cook, and camping is an ideal way to get kids involved in that menial chore.

      [campsite] I always arrange my campsite just like a house. Each tent is a bedroom. I have my lawn chairs and a *floor lamp* with a small table and 5" TV/radio in my *living room*. I have 2 picnic tables. One is for food prep and cleanup. I even bring my Tupperware and my dish-drain! The other table is always set with a tablecloth with colors matching my dishes. My campsite's theme is Wedgwood Blue. I even rewebbed my old lawn chairs to match!


      Considering the fact that, at home, the dining room table is so full of my clutter, causing us to eat dinner at the coffee table sitting on the couch, the campsite is actually MORE condusive to *quality family time*.

      [Corey and Dad]
      Corey and Dad


      One day, Lance and the kids decided to go crabbing at one of the inlets. I don't recall what I was doing that day, probably hitting the craft shop up in Rio Grande. They brought back tons (okay, maybe just a few pounds) of fresh, live crabs. There is nothing more disgusting for me than to be right near the pot of boiling water and having them drop in those poor, scared, suffering crabs!

      Lance, Eric and Corey prepared dinner that night. I tried to ignore what they were doing, my nose buried in yet one more medical thriller. As I read a terrifically graphic autopsy, my kids were killing crabs by boiling them! We figured that the stench of vinegar, old bay seasoning and hot peppers would be enough to keep the mosquitos away for a LONG time <*G*>

      Unfortunately for us, Cape May no longer sprays....it's supposed to be healthier that way. However, the mosquitos took a liking to the odor eminating from our campsite....and no one else in the entire campground was bothered by them all night. Even as Lance was removing the cooked crabs from the pot, the mosquitos were landing on them! Fleeing the thick cloud of hungry bugs, we escaped to a local hamburger joint on the beach. It was now after 10 PM and most places were already closed. So much for crabs! Never again.

      A campsite averages $22 per night, which includes water and electric. I am convinced that this is the ONLY way to travel! Late at night, with the campfire burning, the kids are so exhausted they can't even get into trouble! Many times, they will walk, or ride their bikes, down to the pavillion to watch a movie or play mini-golf. I prefer to have a traditional sing-along, but after so many years involved with Cub Scouting, my kids got a little tired of it. <*G*> Sometimes they go to the General Store to buy that horrible stuff they call *breakfast*. It's a packet of colored, flavored sugar with a *spoon*.....the *spoon* is actually hardened candy! Our camping buddy refers to that as Vitamin J (LOL) This is the same, wonderful nutrition WE used to eat, but back then they were called pixie sticks. They also ride their bikes around the campground, but at night they can't see where they're going (LOL)

      On Thursdays, we generally take a bike-hike or car tour of the area. We used to like the Ferry area, but it's now closed to visitors. Only paying passengers can board....so those of us who woudn't dare actually RIDE the ferry due to seasickness can't even see it from the inside anymore. However, they have a great restaurant and gift shop...I collect magnets, so I had a good time there.

      [Lance cooking]
      Lance BBQs dinner!


      We go back to the beach on Friday. Knowing that it's our last full-day at the campground, we are filled with both the desire to stay there, and the realization that we are, afterall, in Cape May. So, back to the beach it is. We only spend about 2 hours there. We're already getting bored and hungry. Directly across Beach Avenue from where we are sitting on the beach is a place which used to be called The Beach Plum...or something like that. I know that doesn't do you any good now, but suffice it to say that the company who took over the restaurant isn't all that good. We only go there to get sodas.

      It was on a Friday, a few years back, that ambulances and fire engines were racing north as we were driving south through Cold Spring Village. We later found out that an F-16 had crashed into the hill behind a nearby campground! Miraculously, the pilot walked away from it! The earth was scorched....the plane fell apart, and he was fine! That's a tribute to our wonderful servicemen!!

      [sunken concrete ship] At night, we drive down to Sunset Beach, home of the sunken concrete ship, the remains of the SS Atlantus, which looks like a HUGE rock in the bay from the beach at the end of Sunset Blvd. A plaque on shore reads, "Remains of experimental concrete battleship built during World War I. Proven impractical because of weight." Sunset Beach is on the bayside and it's also famous for its Cape May Diamonds. Although the sand here is very rough (due to all those diamonds), it's really neat to watch the Ferry as it crosses the Deleware Bay. What waves it creates! Like the time Lance slipped off the jetty while fishing because of the wake from the boat! That was really funny.


      At sunset, we have a flag-retirement ceremony. This is quite impressive. Especially since I have been involved in Boy Scouting for MANY years, and I have seen and participated in LOTS of flag ceremonies, take it from me that the one at Sunset Beach is beautifully done.

      At the Community Days Opening Ceremony here in Berks County, my son's BSA Troop does the *I am Your Flag* ceremony. My son reads from the stage, while my husband helps the boys on the ground burn old flags which have been donated to the troop during the year. Soft patriotic music plays in the background. We have had many compliments over the years about how impressive our ceremony is. So I can speak from experience about Sunset's ceremony.

      [Flag Ceremony] As people congregate, the food shack and the gift shop announce the sunset's approach. They close their doors to customers. The ships, small boats and the Ferry stop right where they are in the bay. With the sun setting over the expanse of bay, all is quiet. Looking over my shoulder, I can see the beacon from the lighthouse. Such a serene setting I can't imagine anywhere else. Time seems to stand still. Volunteers who signed up well in advance approach the flag. They are young kids. Guided by an older gentleman, they slowly lower the flag as the Lord lowers the sun. God Bless America is playing in the background. The kids are shown how to properly fold the flag and present it. I actually had tears in my eyes! I insisted we return the following night, before going home! Never have I been so moved by a flag-retirement! Except of course, when Eric does his ceremony here at Community Days.


      If you decide to go, be sure to get there no later than 6PM. The parking lot gets really crowded and there's a wait for food if you wait to long to get there. Bring a video camera. This is a ceremony you'll want to keep forever.

      I think what impressed me the most is that time actually does stand still for those few minutes. Nobody even seems to be breathing. And the boats stopped! Even commerce and commercialization stop for America's flag! This is a great commentary on the character of those who visit Cape May.
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      [Lighthouse]


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