History
Cape May, NJ is probably the most quaint of all beach resort communities. Located at the
southernmost tip of New Jersey, it offers clean, sparkling beaches, jetties, and, BEST of all,
those wonderful Painted Ladies, also known as Gingerbreads and Victorians.
Cape May is America's oldest seaside
resort. Vacationers started summering there in the early 1800s, and it has remained a popular
vacation spot ever since. Much of what still stands hails from the Victorian era. Dozens of
splendid inns, hotels, and private homes have been lavishly and lovingly restored, complete with
historically correct paint hues that highlight the elaborate gingerbread ornamentation on the
wood-frame buildings. Most lie in the town's central historic district, which is included on the
National Register of Historic Places.
The entire city of Cape May was designated a National Historic Landmark by the United States
Department of the Interior in 1976. With its Victorian architecture, restored and preserved,
Cape May is the nation's oldest seashore resort, catering to visitors since the early 1600s when
Native American tribes summered on the beaches. The tourism industry flourished in the ensuing
centuries when desperately-needed roads were laid in the 1700s and during the late 1800s, two
railroads, the Reading and West Jersey, provided service onto Cape Island. Across the bay from
Cape May lies the state of Delaware. On a clear day, its shores are clearly defined. Today, the
Cape May-Lewes Ferry operates daily transporting cars, bicycles and pedestrians between the two
states. But during the Civil War, the states the states were at odds; Delaware was a
slave-holding state, and New Jersey was not.
Rumor on the island tells of various homes with secret rooms and long tunnels dating back to
the Civil War. It is a given among local folks that the underground railroad ran through the
island, with many of those riding its rails remaining in the area; and there are families today
still hesitant to speak of their origins. Despite several setbacks such as the devastating
35-acre fire of 1878 and national economic difficulties including the 1898 depression, Cape May
survived into the 20th century as an upscale vacation resort. Numerous hotels were built in the
early 1900s to accommodate the masses. Wide porches bedecked these hotels where visitors
strolled with parasols in hand and top hats perched. Photographs scattered in businesses
throughout the town illustrate those thriving times early in the century.
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1990s
Today there are but two of these mammoth hotels left. The Inn of Cape May and Congress Hall,
both 100 years old, remain relatively unchanged, exteriors painted their original colors of
white and yellow respectively, their wide porches capturing the soft breezes so many came to
enjoy through the years.
Other cities, mostly in the western states, achieved similar National Historic Landmark
designations during the 1970s and into the 80s for their contributions to American history
but the course of time and natural disaster forced most onto an Endangered Landmark list and
eventual designation demise. Currently, Cape May stands as the nation's only entire city
designated a National Historic Landmark. Twenty years of sustaining this prestigious
distinction has brought pride to its 5,000 year-round residents and an influx of over 80,000
visitors on any given summer weekend.
Cape May's streets are lined with buildings ornamented in gingerbread trim, most with airy
porches, and garnished in pastel paint. Tours are given daily, some on foot and many by
trolley, offering visitors a peek at the past. Yet Cape May is not simply a seashore playground;
the town's heart and soul are its residents, families which have lived here for generation after
generation, some Mayflower descendants, who live day-to-day cherishing the town's rich past and
looking forward to the future.
Lance and I began visiting Cape May back in September 1973, sort of by accident. Back in
those days, we traveled *cheap*, staying at the then-called rooming houses. These were
Victorians with many bedrooms on each floor and shared bathrooms. A one-night stay averaged
$10.00. Downstairs, we had access to the kitchen and the living room which usually had a TV
which only had local stations (remember, this was 1973, folks). We would bring a small BBQ
grill and cook our food outside.
Many times, we invited friends from
Philly to join us. We'd spend our days on the sand, leaving only to visit Steger's Store
on Beach Drive. Bob Steger was one of the most fascinating people I have ever met there.
Energetic, always tanned although I never saw him ever actually leave the store. We'd buy
anything from film, to T-shirts, hot dogs, suntan lotion and even rent an umbrella! His was a
full-service store. I was sorry when he retired back around 1993. The year he retired, he dug
out of his attic lots of really neat stuff to get rid of. I bought an old Reader's Digest
which to this day, still has that wonderful musty smell :)
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There is no boardwalk in
Cape May, at least not at the southern end. We do have a concrete walk, tho. After the old
wooden boardwalk had gone up like matchsticks, it was decided to replace it with concrete.
It's above street and beach level, so it still has the *ambiance* of a boardwalk. There is a
boardwalk farther north along the beach, which is where Convention Hall is.
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As the years went by, we saw the lunar eclipse from the beach, a Hobie Cat Regatta, fireworks
from a ship out at sea and the crash of an F-16 just a few years ago. We've seen terrible
storms and watched the huge waves crash the beach and the *concrete boardwalk*....we've seen old
friends retire and move to Maine and we've seen beautiful old buildings demolished to make way
for *modern* commercialization. Steger's qaint shop became one of the modern malls. Yuck!
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We've seen other changes too. The rooming houses became Bed & Breakfasts! Now, for the
SAME exact accomodations, one can pay an average of $80 per night, but, breakfast is included!
What a bargain!
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When we first started going to Cape May, we stayed at many of the rooming houses to see which
we liked the best. The most popular, back in the early 70s, was the Carroll Villa on Jackson
Street. They had the most gorgeous wrap-around porch with white rocking chairs! Then, sometime
in the mid-70s, a guy named Harry opened up a restaurant/cafe. Serving one of the best
breakfasts I had ever had, The Mad Batter quickly became my favorite! We would now eat on the
same porch I had so admired for many years.
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Nothing can compare to Kahn's Ugly Mug on Washington Street for a fun dinner. The kids can walk
the few blocks, stopping into the stores, while Lance and I wait outside for our food to arrive.
Late at night, at least back in the 70s, they had live bands....my favorite was a group called
Smoked Country Jam....downhome Bluegrass! I wonder if they're still around??
I remember one year, back in 1989, we took our young kids to visit my dad's boat which was
docked in Wildwood. We arranged to stay at the motel attached to my favorite rooming house,
the Perry House. Located just 1/2 block from the beach on Perry Street, this is where Lance
and I had stayed all those glorious years. We even honeymooned there, bringing several friends
with us. It rained the whole week :(
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Camping
Bringing the kids to the motel was the most boring vacation we have ever had. We took them to
all of our old favorites in Cape May, but at night, we were stuck in the
motel. We couldn't exactly leave
the kids there alone while strolling the beach in the moonlight. There was no wrap-around porch
with rocking chairs.....we stayed in and watched TV. B-o-r-i-n-g!
I vowed never to be stuck like that again. No, not me, no way! Next time, we'd go
camping!
The following year, I drove down to visit some campsites I had heard about. It took only 5
minutes to decide which one was going to be *mine*.
Seashore Campsites on Seashore Road is the BEST
campsite. It's also the ONLY one I bothered to visit! I fell in love immediately, and I've
been addicted ever since. We have a nice lake, mini-golf, a pavillion where movies are shown,
flea markets and lots of great *neighbors*. One of our *neighbors* turned out to be involved
in Scouting, and thereafter, we vacationed together at the campground. Another turned out to
live not too far from us in Philly, so we became year-round friends too.
This is one campground which offers DAILY activities, not just weekends. A typical week for me
camping in Cape May would include a trip to the beach on Tuesday. We set up camp on Monday.
Wednesdays always meant a scavenger hunt at the lake or a water balloon fight. Of course, the
adults were just supposed to watch, not get into the action.....that was hard! It looked like
so much fun!
Corey made a friend, a cute little bug who ate out of her hand!
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In the afternoon, I'd drop the kids and Lance off at the
Whale Watcher
(just over the causeway near the baitshop).
They never did get to see a whale, but they saw their share of dolphins! What a thrill that is
every year for the kiddies! While they're out there avoiding getting seasick, I'm doing laundry!
Even that can be fun while camping. No kidding, I actually ENJOY it (LOL)
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I also get some much-needed food shopping done and relax reading a book at the site. Then it's
time to pick them up from their mid-week adventure and back to the site to make dinner. Eric
loves to cook, and camping is an ideal way to get kids involved in that menial chore.
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I always arrange my campsite just like a house. Each tent is a bedroom. I have my lawn chairs and a
*floor lamp* with a small table and 5" TV/radio in my *living room*. I have 2 picnic tables.
One is for food prep and cleanup. I even bring my Tupperware and my dish-drain! The other
table is always set with a tablecloth with colors matching my dishes. My campsite's theme is
Wedgwood Blue. I even rewebbed my old lawn chairs to match!
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Considering the fact that, at home, the dining room table is so full of my clutter, causing us
to eat dinner at the coffee table sitting on the couch, the campsite is actually MORE condusive
to *quality family time*.
Corey and Dad
One day, Lance and the kids decided to go crabbing at one of the inlets. I don't recall what I
was doing that day, probably hitting the craft shop up in Rio Grande. They brought back tons
(okay, maybe just a few pounds) of fresh, live crabs. There is nothing more disgusting for me
than to be right near the pot of boiling water and having them drop in those poor, scared,
suffering crabs!
Lance, Eric and Corey prepared dinner that night. I tried to ignore what they were doing, my
nose buried in yet one more medical thriller. As I read a terrifically graphic autopsy, my kids
were killing crabs by boiling them! We figured that the stench of vinegar, old bay seasoning
and hot peppers would be enough to keep the mosquitos away for a LONG time <*G*>
Unfortunately for us, Cape May no longer sprays....it's supposed to be healthier that way.
However, the mosquitos took a liking to the odor eminating from our campsite....and no one else
in the entire campground was bothered by them all night. Even as Lance was removing the cooked
crabs from the pot, the mosquitos were landing on them! Fleeing the thick cloud of hungry bugs,
we escaped to a local hamburger joint on the beach. It was now after 10 PM and most places were
already closed. So much for crabs! Never again.
A campsite averages $22 per night,
which includes water and electric. I am convinced that this is the ONLY way to travel! Late at
night, with the campfire burning, the kids are so exhausted they can't even get into trouble!
Many times, they will walk, or ride their bikes, down to the pavillion to watch a movie or play
mini-golf. I prefer to have a traditional
sing-along, but after so many years
involved with Cub Scouting, my
kids got a little tired of it. <*G*> Sometimes they go to the General Store to buy that
horrible stuff they call *breakfast*. It's a packet of colored, flavored sugar with a
*spoon*.....the *spoon* is actually hardened candy! Our camping buddy refers to that as
Vitamin J (LOL) This is the same, wonderful nutrition WE used to eat, but back then they
were called pixie sticks. They also ride their bikes around the campground, but at night they
can't see where they're going (LOL)
On Thursdays, we generally take a bike-hike or car tour of the area. We used to like the
Ferry area, but it's now closed to
visitors. Only paying passengers can board....so those of us who woudn't dare actually RIDE the
ferry due to seasickness can't even see it from the inside anymore. However, they have a great
restaurant and gift shop...I collect magnets, so I had a good time there.
Lance BBQs dinner!
We go back to the beach on Friday. Knowing that it's our last full-day at the campground, we
are filled with both the desire to stay there, and the realization that we are, afterall, in
Cape May. So, back to the beach it is. We only spend about 2 hours there. We're already
getting bored and hungry. Directly across Beach Avenue from where we are sitting on the
beach is a place which used to be called The Beach Plum...or something like that. I know that
doesn't do you any good now, but suffice it to say that the company who took over the restaurant
isn't all that good. We only go there to get sodas.
It was on a Friday, a few years back, that ambulances and fire engines were racing north as we
were driving south through Cold Spring
Village. We later found out that an F-16 had crashed into the hill behind a nearby
campground! Miraculously, the pilot walked away from it! The earth was scorched....the plane
fell apart, and he was fine! That's a tribute to our wonderful servicemen!!
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At night, we drive down to Sunset Beach,
home of the sunken concrete ship, the remains
of the SS Atlantus, which looks like a HUGE rock in the bay from the beach at the end of Sunset
Blvd. A plaque on shore reads, "Remains of experimental concrete battleship built during World
War I. Proven impractical because of weight." Sunset Beach is on the bayside and it's also
famous for its Cape May Diamonds. Although the sand here is very rough (due to all those
diamonds), it's really neat to watch the Ferry as it crosses the Deleware Bay. What waves it
creates! Like the time Lance slipped off the jetty while fishing because of the wake from the
boat! That was really funny.
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At sunset, we have a flag-retirement ceremony. This is quite impressive. Especially since I
have been involved in Boy Scouting for MANY years, and I have seen and participated in LOTS of
flag ceremonies, take it from me that the one at Sunset Beach is beautifully done.
At the Community Days Opening Ceremony here in
Berks County, my son's BSA Troop does
the *I am Your Flag* ceremony. My son reads from the stage, while my husband helps the boys on
the ground burn old flags which have been donated to the troop during the year. Soft patriotic
music plays in the background. We have had many compliments over the years about how impressive
our ceremony is. So I can speak from experience about Sunset's ceremony.
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As people congregate, the food shack and the gift shop announce the sunset's approach.
They close their doors to customers. The ships, small boats and the Ferry stop right where
they are in the bay. With the sun setting over the expanse of bay, all is quiet. Looking over
my shoulder, I can see the beacon from the
lighthouse. Such a serene setting I
can't imagine anywhere else. Time seems to stand still. Volunteers who signed up well in
advance approach the flag. They are young kids. Guided by an older gentleman, they slowly
lower the flag as the Lord lowers the sun. God Bless America is playing in the background.
The kids are shown how to properly fold the
flag and present it. I actually had
tears in my eyes! I insisted we return the following night, before going home! Never have I
been so moved by a flag-retirement! Except of course, when Eric does his ceremony here at
Community Days.
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If you decide to go, be sure to get there no later than 6PM. The parking lot gets really
crowded and there's a wait for food if you wait to long to get there. Bring a video camera.
This is a ceremony you'll want to keep forever.
I think what impressed me the most is that time actually does stand still for those few
minutes. Nobody even seems to be breathing. And the boats stopped! Even commerce and
commercialization stop for America's flag! This is a great commentary on the character of
those who visit Cape May.
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